Looking forward to getting her into the water in the spring, i need to get a sail too.
I have to get the interior painted, there is no rush as winter has arrived.
I have learn a lot buiding this boat - patience for one -the next boat should be a lot quicker, easier and less expensive.
I also think that if you are finnishing a boat with several layers of epoxy (perhaps even a fibre mesh + epoxy hull coating) , several layers of primer/water sealer and then a 2 part polyurethane topcoat it is sufficient to use some quality birch ply - if you can locate some - the Finnish birch has a good reputation. Marine ply will always be preferable but if you look after your boat ie : mend any holes /major scratches promptly and properly (as you would have to do with any ply) then the comparitive lifetimes of birch and marine ply might not be that different.
Time will tell..but it seems to tell different people different things..!
By this stage in the build i realised that the saying was true that a product for boats costs a third more than the same product used for a different application ! I have heard that automotive paint with similar properties can be used more cheaply on boats, if it bonds with epoxy and is waterproof it should be fine, something to look into.
Below is the boat with a couple of coats of primer (Hempel primer) and the first topcoat of white (Hempel Polybest) As with everything else regarding boat products there is plenty of conflicting advice/opinion on how and which paints to use. These 2 products are a bit expensive but will hopefully last for a long time. The primer is also a water sealer and like the topcoat comes in 2 parts - one part is the hardener . The topcoat is 2 part polyurethane paint which is extremely fine and sensitive to your application. Any flaws or marks will show through under this paint, so if you want a perfect finnish sand and fill extensively before painting, i wasn't all that concerned having already used fibre glass strips that were too thick and could not be disguised ! I used a brush but spraying would give a better finnish. I believe Hempel is called Blakes in the UK.
If you use these paints get the corresponding thinner also - the paint goes a bit further and obviously the brushes last longer .
The weather was turning against me, fortunately i was able to use the garage of a friend to do the painting. 
Arial view. 
Mast supports. 
The timber for the rowlock attatchments is also cherry.
Also made a piece for the mast support from a cherry off cut..i'm calling it the Circum Jiggart...or perhaps the Circum Mastaddon.
I procured a nice peice of cherry wood to make the front knee.
Also an eye hook for the jib.
Adding U-Bolt at the bow with thickened epoxy.
Unfortunately i had already coated the boat with polyester resin. This is a picture of the boat after i scraped the polyester off with a heat gun( i was partially high afterwards) and 4 coats of epoxy were applied.---------------------------------------------------------------------
Almost out of epoxy. I had some polyester resin + mekp -50 hardener (horrible stuff) designed for glass fibre application which i thought i might try to utilise instead of epoxy, it's a lot cheaper.
It was at this point i entered into 'The Great Epoxy vs Polyester Resin Debate'.
The long and short was that it was time to find the readies to splash out for more epoxy - i decided on some general purpose epoxy that i would also be able to use as a primer/waterproofer before painting (eg ; SP106 /SP106)
Although this is my first attempt at building a boat, i would like it to have some longevity and sturdyness, the polyester seemed a bit hit and miss over wooden surfaces so although more expensive, it was more logical (and cheaper in the long run)to go with epoxy to eliminate uncertainty. Building this boat is an expensive process, so to be able to sell it in the future if need be, without having to carry out large scale repair (or let it go cheaper on account of bad condition) is a consideration.
I won't start it again but for anyone else who is on the verge of the Epoxy vs Polyester crossroads here are some links;
Rudder parts epoxy coated.
I decided to put glass fibre at front and back of the hull bottom..an attempt at future stoney beach damage limitation.
Hole cut for daggerboard and sealed with thickened epoxy.
Skeg fitted
Outer gunnels were fitted before turning over.
Outside seams filled and glassed, rubbing strips fitted.
I sealed the outer gunnels to the chines (underneath) with thickened epoxy to try to keep water from the birch boards as much as possible.
Rowlocks, mast supports, foredeck, front knee, stem u-bolt + eye hook (plus some epoxy filling of holes that were made for rubbing strips) need to be done on the interior before painting and finishing.
..and planing to shape + epoxy coat
Checking the daggerboard fit..
I made an extra support at the transom to help hold the boards in place while they were stitched and epoxied - there was a fair bit of tension in the boards
Aft deck, ply doubler plus 9mm ply pad for motor.
Buoyancy tops and daggerboard case fitted.
Buoyancy tanks' sides and bunkbase top.
Transom bulkhead and rudder pad plus seat support.
Bulkheads fitted with thickened epoxy ( i used wood dust from the electric sander-it worked fine )
Marine ply cut, three support frames made and placed level, then panels stitched, epoxied, filled and glassed at joins. Inner gunnels fitted..it would have been nice to use hardwood but the wallet said no, treated pine instead.
I live close to the arctic circle in Finland, there is plenty of water but not much summer, i'm hoping to launch this boat before the lakes freeze, it is difficult to find specialised parts here, in this area fishing is very popular but they don't seem to go in for sailing much. Because of my shoddy Finish language skills and difficulty translating the english sailing terms ..pintle and gudgeon etc..i will send away for fixtures - like slot rubber for the daggerboard hole (although i thought of improvising with tyre rubber ) - so i will have to be patient.
